Overall wine drinking is at its lowest since 1961, yet in the right city restaurants for under-40 diners, the cloudy, low-intervention bottle has quietly taken over the by-the-glass list.

  • Total consumption fell 3.3 percent last year, 5.8 percent in the United States, per the OIV.
  • Venues listing natural wine on the Raisin app rose from about 5,000 in 2021 to over 8,000 by end of 2024, and in Paris it moved out of bars and shops and into restaurants.
  • Small importers who barely existed 15 years ago now feed those lists, and millennials, not boomers, are the ones drinking from them.

The catch: this is a few-neighborhoods map, not a national one. The default pour says less about taste than about who a restaurant thinks its customer is.