A workshop was paid 53 euros to make a Dior bag that retailed at 2,600. That gap is the story behind the July 16 raids, when Italy's labor police walked into nine luxury houses, Chanel, Bulgari, Moncler and six others, for their supply-chain documents.

They were pulled in through packaging suppliers, traced to two Chinese-owned workshops with undocumented workers, disabled safety guards, and labels reading Made in Albania.

  • None of the nine is under investigation; a document grab, not an arrest.
  • Workers earned 2 to 3 euros an hour; December's sweep hit 13 houses, Gucci and Prada included.
  • Chanel says it cut the subcontractor loose in May; audits keep missing what raids find.

Made in Italy is a promise about hands, and the police keep finding a different set than the one on the label.