Japan tripled the departure tax and raised the Kyoto and Fuji fees, and with the yen near a 40-year low the whole lot is rounding error.

The new fees are real but small: the sayonara tax is 3,000 yen (about 18 dollars) once, buried in your fare; a mid-range Kyoto room is taxed about 400 yen a night; Mount Fuji's 4,000 yen only bites if you actually climb.

Dodge the crush, not the country:

  • Skip the summit; the Fuji Five Lakes give you the view for a 2,200 yen bus ticket
  • Trade the Arashiyama bamboo grove for near-empty Adashino and Otagi Nenbutsu-ji
  • Base in Kanazawa for the old-capital postcard at half the volume
  • Go at dawn or on a winter weekday

The fee lands where the crowd does, which is more than most tourist taxes manage.